Port Stanley is a tender port, it’s also a very windy port and 3 out of 4 ships due to stop there, don’t because of the weather. All night, the ship was rocking and rolling in some fairly choppy seas, I was pretty much preparing myself that we wouldn’t be able to stop and I wouldn’t be able to see the resident penguins. When morning came, the water was like a dew pond and we took the 45 minute tender across to the eastern island. What I wasn’t prepared for, was to fall in love with the Falklands.

Port Stanley, looks like any quintessentially British coastal town, apart from all the roofs being made of corrugated steel. There are 3 pubs within easy walking distance of the port, a number of grockle shops and the local family owned ‘West Store’ is actually a Waitrose- which lets face it, is very apt!!

We split resources, one of us (M) heading off to look at some of the Falkland war battle sites and I went on a penguin hunt. The many minefields laid during the Argentine invasion in 1982 to kill / British soldiers, has actually helped to create nature reserves for birds, including penguins. Less than 20 mins, out of the city, is Bluff Cove, which is also where the Sir Galahad was sunk. On June 8th, 1982 Argentine planes hit the 2 supply ships: Sir Galahad and Sir Tristram killing 50 people.

Bluff Cove shows no signs of that previous history now and is now ‘just’ a stunning long white sandy beach, which wouldn’t be out of place on any Caribbean island. I saw King, Gentoo and Magellan penguins here (Magellans just visiting- the others are resident species). It was amazing to see them with their young chicks! Quite a few of the birds were moulting and the gentle breeze often lifted the tiny feathers off the ground and it looked like a dusting of snow. For some time, I just sat on the beach as the penguins were brought in on the waves and waddled past me, back to their gafffs. Magical.

To add to this unique experience, there was a tiny cafe, which was heated by an old traditional peat stove and served decent tea, along with fresh scones slathered with cream and Diddle Dee jam ( a very local speciality).

I think our perception of how small the islands were and the numerous skirmishes/ assaults in 1982 was a little out of whack. M’s attempt to try and cover a lot of ground and tie events together failed miserably. We wanted to get to Ajax Bay and San Carlos on the north of the island was a 4 hour round trip and would leave little time for anything else. This was really disappointing and feels like reason enough to make a return trip.

Any of the older islanders are happy to talk to you about waking up and finding a flotilla of Argentine ships in the channel and the coming weeks of oppression until the British soldiers arrived and liberated them. There is a pride in being an islander here and whilst they talk about about what has happened in recent history, they are very keen to show how they are working towards self sufficiency, whether that be by sustainable fuel, health and education to paying for their defences supplied by mainland UK. It is certainly not an island stuck in the past.

I’m definitely coming back to this spectacular island and their friendly, proud people.