Sunday 18th Feb

We are picked up by our private driver who James booked as public transport for this leg of the journey was too difficult, no trains or buses available. So we bite the bullet and book a driver, it takes us about 4 hours and costs 28,000 rupees which is about £70. Our most expensive journey yet.

Journey from Karpaha to Ella - the initial part of the journey is almost like driving through the Serengeti. It then becomes a bit more rural and we follow a river for quite some time and see locals washing in the reservoir. Plus we see a number of farmers drying rice and maize on the road. Our taxi had to stop to allow a monitor lizards to cross the road and at one point we were nearly totalled by a Tuktuk which was driving directly at us on the wrong side of the road, fortunately our driver pulled off the road just in time.

The closer we get to Badulla we start to spot the tea terraces which are planted on terraces just like vines.

We then arrive in Ella around 3, dropped straight out our next stop which on arrival we both realise is not quite what we were expecting. We soon also realise that nothing much works as it should or is broken. I feel extremely demoralised and after the numerous visits by the owners they realise that we’re not happy. We are supposed to be staying three nights and on top of that I’ve come down with the most horrendous cold and sore throat (J initially had it and we think he picked it up from the hideous hotel we stayed at in Passikudah). Ok I know we’ve been thoroughly spoilt over the last few days but the two places could not be more extreme. Anyway, we dump our bags and attempt to lock the door, which is also broken, before walking to 9 arch bridge. It’s a famous viaduct which the trains still rumble over (we’ll be leaving by train so will experience it fully then). There are literally hundreds of tourists who have done the same, it’s a nice jungle walk from the main road to the viaduct and on the way I spot another creature, which we think is a mongoose. I’m not sure if it’s going to attack me but it decides to run away which is a huge relief. We join the throngs of people around the viaduct but decide not to hang around for the 5.30pm train, favouring a walk back through the jungle into town followed by a beer. We nearly end up in a massive argument with a German family who don’t seem to have heard of parental control. After chugging back our drinks, we pop back to our accommodation and change into long trousers, yoga pants in my case, then head back into the main town of Ella (avoiding our German friends) for dinner. I’m not sure who told us Ella was nice but I feel like I’ve landed in an 18-30 holiday resort. Not our vibe at all, again I guess my senses are heightened (assaulted!) due to the relative peace and quiet of Karpaha Sands. We end up eating in a restaurant called La Mensa which is pretty good, when eventually the food comes, which it does but only after I’ve had a mini melt down with the waiter… it’s not been a great day for disagreements! Back to our accommodation and the mood continues to be set, I grab a shower and water is freezing cold, yet again the owner obliges with another visit to our room to ‘fix’ the problem. J sets the scene at this point that we’re not happy and wish to move on.

Monday 19th Feb

After a mixed nights sleep, got up and attempted to make myself a coffee. Yet another thing that appears to be broken! See photo! We head down to breakfast. The owners seem to fully appreciate that we’re leaving so it’s saved us quite a bit of hassle. They were really sweet, made us a nice breakfast AND then cancelled our booking on Booking.com. In the meantime we’d lined up another place to go, 3 Arch Eko Cottages. After breakfast we head off down into town for a coffee, grab a tuktuk which then takes us to our new accommodation which is lovely by comparison. Dump the bags and we head up onto 3 Arch Bridge and walk along the train tracks until we hit Ella Station. We collect our train tickets for 21st and chat to the train master about a potential upgrade from 3rd class, in the usual way we’re told with them famous head wiggle that everything might be possible. Otherwise it’ll be another train journey with me standing up and hanging out the doors for 3 hours!! Anyway, that’s in a few days so no point in stressing.

We decide to walk through town and hike up to Little Adam’s Peak, it’s fairly hot but plenty of stops for water and fresh coconut water on the way. On our way up to the peak is the very ridiculous 98 Acres Spa / hotel. So many people hanging out there doing their Instagram reels. There’s even a giant swing where for the price of about 10,000 RS (£25) you can dress up in a long flowing gown with matching floral headgear and have lots of photos taken of you swinging out… not something that appealed to me. On a bit further at the base of the climb was the Ravana Zip Wire, again not something we were bothered about doing.

We carried on with our climb to the summit and it’s a fairly stunning view. We take our time wandering about at the top.

Walk back down into Kandy and find a small coffee shop near the station so we stop for a coconut hot choc in my case and J has a mango juice. We walk down the tracks back to our hotel. I immediately shower and then crawl into our huge 7ft bed (our new hotel is so much nicer). My cold has kicked in full strength now and I’m streaming and feeling awful so we end up ordering takeaway which is delivered to our room and is very lovely.