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/ Two Scilly Bullocks on a Boat

Isles Of Scilly

United Kingdom, 07. July 2023
A gorgeous sunrise - hope it’s not a sailor’s warning.
A noisy night with lots of slap and swell, which I slept soundly through; a cocktail of exhaustion, antihistamines and seasickness tablets, which I finally needed.
Using a combination of electronic and paper charts, along with sight navigation we entered St Mary’s Pool.
St Mary’s is the largest and most fertile of the Isles of Scilly. Its capital, Hugh Town, began to develop after Star Castle and the garrison were built in 1594 on a peninsula known as Hue. This was part of Elizabeth I’s development of coastal fortifications in anticipation of a Spanish invasion.
It is a very busy harbour, with loads of mooring buoys packed closely together. We thought we’d found a lovely [red] buoy until we discovered it is private. The yellow visitor ones are very robust, and so close, that when unoccupied tap on the side of your boat.
There were a few yellow buoys available, but as high winds were expected many people sought protection in the harbour. It is also the usual first port of call for boats coming from the UK or France.
Rowers were out training. There are 12 gigs across the islands, and strong competition in twice weekly races.
Taking the dinghy, we landed at the very wobbly pontoon in Hugh Town.
One of the main reasons for going into Hugh Town was to buy a charging lead as mine was damaged on the journey over. Worrying this might not be possible, it was surprisingly easy, as the first shop we visited (the chemist) had one.
This meant we could explore the town. With its quaint houses and up market clothing and touristy shops, we described it as being more Southwold than Southwold.
Our Lady, Star of the Sea Roman Catholic Church. The building was erected in 1860 and was used as the island’s primary school for girls until 1906. Used as a chapel since 1931, since 1980 there has been no resident priest, but is largely served by visiting priests who are offered free accommodation.
Of the many wrecks around Scilly, the MV Cita is the most recent in 1997. A German owned cargo ship sailing from Southampton to Belfast it ran aground in gale force winds, and many containers were washed up on the beaches. Fortunately the fuel and oil containers were salvaged before she sunk.
Locals helped with cleaning up, but also looted items. Police came from Cornwall to note who was removing goods (under the Merchants Acts flotsam should be reported to the Receiver of the Wreck), but there were no prosecutions. Sadly, however, there is long term pollution from the plastic flotsam.
Time for a pint of local brew and a cider on the terrace at the Atlantic Pub. Lovely to sit in the sun and chat with a couple from Lincolnshire.
They had come over on the Scillonian III from Penzance. John (and others) had been ill on the trip over, justifying The boat’s nicknames of the Vomit Comet or The Great White Stomach Pump.
Whilst ashore the tide had gone out, so a little manoeuvring was needed.
Packing boats in.
Rowers returning from Friday night races. Using torches, others returned at dusk.
A beautiful sunset; hopefully a sailor’s delight.

Isles Of Scilly

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