( Overview
/ Two Scilly Bullocks on a Boat
Planning to visit Tresco and Abbey gardens, we crossed the bay from our anchorage off Bryher. Two blogs for today, as the gardens need one to themselves.
Avalon was one of the only boats on a mooring buoy when we arrived, but when we returned in the evening, a French flotilla had arrived and were on most of the remaining buoys.
Cromwell’s Castle.
Hangman’s Island (Bryher). Legend has it Admiral Blake hanged some mutinous crew here during the Civil War.
It still feels ominous.
Worried about the tide coming in, we hauled the dinghy up the beach. Considering this is the most expensive mooring we’ve had (£30), we expected better facilities on the quay. Instead, no pontoon, no showers, filthy toilets and a dead rat!
Fortunately the rest of Tresco is super clean. It is the second largest island in Scilly. Administered for the Crown by the Duchy of Cornwall it is leased to the Dorrien-Smith family who run it as a timeshare business.
Having a reputation for being posh, New Grimsby has an estate office, small shop akin to a mini Fortnum and Masons stocking ten different types of marinated olives, a cafe, gift shop, art gallery and pub.
This was best witnessed in the shop, where young pre teens bought sweets on their parents’ account and talked of them “lasting until they caught the helicopter home”.
Most of the vehicles on the island are electric including the postal van. Some have names, and others handily just state their function rather than having a number plate.
Walking past Great Pool on our way to the gardens (another blog).
The islands a tracks, small roads and paths leading around the island. We left the gardens and walked to Old Grimsby.
On the upper path there are lovely views over to St Martin’s.
The Ruin Beach Cafe is a great place to stop for refreshment.
It was much busier than when we picked up a mooring buoy when we first arrived.
The Blockhouse or Dover Fort was built by Edward VI to defend against French attack. In fact, the blockhouse did not see action until the 17th century, during the English Civil War in 1651.
The Royalist garrison was defending the islands against attack from a Parliamentarian fleet commanded by the famous Admiral Robert Blake. Though vigorously defended, the Old Blockhouse proved of little value against the longer range guns of Blake’s ships.
Walking back to New Grimsby.
Built between 1878-1879, St Nicholas’ Church is dedicated to the patron saint of sailors, travellers, children, merchants and those in distress.
A modern megalithic folly, with a kerbed quoit (mini-Chun) and several standing stones, overlooks New Grimsby harbour.
The New Inn has a sign made from the name board of a wrecked ship.
A delicious meal and lots of fun people watching.
Of course we’d been over cautious in the morning, and, as the tide was out, we needed to drag the dinghy back down the beach - along with a full water canister.
Starting the engine before jumping into the dinghy and returning to Avalon. A choppy, wet journey.
One of the ferries which transport people between the islands.
A beautiful evening…but still a swell!
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